Last week we talked about adding another dog to your home. This week we want to talk about adding a puppy, and specifically, what his (and your) requirements will be.
Your breeder has probably recommended that you buy a crate for the puppy. You have three choices. A soft side crate, a plastic VaryKennel (otherwise known as an airline crate) or a wire crate. Any of these will work well but you want one big enough to allow for the growth of the puppy. Ask your breeder. She will have a good idea what to get. The reason for the crate is to give the puppy a place to call his own. Believe it or not, if the puppy is properly introduced to the crate, he will go in it by himself. The trick is to leave the door open and feed and treat the puppy in the crate so he thinks that good things happen in it. A couple of his favorite toys and a few treats and before long, he will go in it on his own. Most breeders suggest that the puppy sleep at night in a crate so there will be no accidents in the house. Make sure, though, when you wake up in the morning to take him out to potty immediately after letting him out of the crate. Dogs naturally will not eliminate in the crate but will look to go as soon as they are out. If you potty him right away, he will learn to wait until he’s outside to go. You will be surprised how quickly most puppies can be house trained.
Speaking of house training, remember that puppies pee and poop…a lot. It may be necessary to take him outside every hour or so so he can pee. Make sure you praise him every time he goes. After a few weeks, his need to go will diminish and his ability to hold it will lengthen so the trips outside will be fewer. Before you know it, he will ask you to go out. Some smaller breeds are naturally harder to house train and some are almost impossible, but the key word is almost. Be patient and consistent and you will succeed.
Introducing the puppy to an older dog should go slowly. Some puppies can be very exuberant and they may not know enough to read the body language of the older dog and that could lead to the older dog acting aggressively towards the puppy. Your job is to monitor the interaction between the two of them and remove the puppy if things look like they’re getting a little out of hand. Take pity on your old dog! Lot’s of exercise and training for the puppy and long walks with the two of them will go a long way to start the bonding process. Before you know it, they will be sleeping and playing together.
Your breeder probably recommended a food for the puppy. Chances are her recommendations are good, but there are a couple of great choices that should be considered. Over the years, there has been a lot of debate on what kind of food to feed a puppy. The feeling was that puppy food was not good because it promoted rapid growth and the dogs paid the price with poor joints and brittle bones. Today, that is not always the case. Champion Dog Foods, makers of Orijen and Acana, have a puppy food that has reduced calcium and phosphorous designed to slow the growth of joints and bones. Just remember, if your dog will grow to 50 pounds or more, select the Large Breed food. When the dog is 80% of his fully grown size, then it’s time to switch to adult food. Heed their recommendation on the amount you feed him, stay away from table scraps, and keep him busy and you both will reap the benefits.
Remember, it’s in your puppy’s best interest to stay lean and well exercised.
*notes*
50#’s or larger use large breed puppy food
It has reduced calcium and phosphorous to slow growth of bones and joints. Reduces likelyhood of premature injuries.
Best to keep dog lean and healthy
80% of adult size, switch to adult food
Watch belly and ribs to determine amount of food fed.